:: HOW TO...
DISCLAIMER: fiatcoupe.net can offer no technical support apart from these "How To..." pages. Neither can we accept any liability. Accept all these guides as illustration and remember you should always know what you're doing when you're working on a car.
Brakes and wheels
» Engine bay work
Some easy work
:: Engine bay work
How to replace cambelt on 20v Coupe
Idle control valve removal (for cleaning)
How to change a rocker cover - 16vt
Replace spark plugs on 20vt
Replace oil cooler and cooler pipes on 20vt
Replacing the cambelt on 16vt
Replacing fuel filter
Replacing the manifold of a 20vt
Replace manifold on 20vt
Optimize induction system
Airbox modification: holes
Airbox modifications: drainpipe
:: How to replace cambelt on 20v Coupe
Thanks to © Skinflint Productions
FIAT Coupe 20v Cambelt, Aux Belt, Tensioner and Water Pump Change engine in car.
The 20v Engine is quite large for the space in the engine bay.
FIAT have compounded this by choosing unusual fastenings to keep the DIYer away and some poorly considered tensioner mounting arrangements. Changing the belt itself is about the same as doing a Mondeo belt or any other, so not difficult in itself. The difficulty I found was getting around the need for specialist tools like cam locking blocks and ribe bits, and also figuring out a sensible way to get the engine to move safely in the bay. The diagram below shows how I made the engine move. Up/down movement
was also used to make various fastenings accessible. I did not change the adjustable tensioner at the rear because it
seemed a bit steep at around Â£60 inc VAT.
I tried to remove it for a clean and failed, but it seemed to be in good condition.
Because the adjustable tensioner is at the rear of the engine I believe the centre mount would also need removal and this was risky with the jack arrangement I had in place.
I did change:
Fixed Tensioner (Â£20)
Cam Belt (Â£25)
Aux Belt (Â£15)
Total cost Â£100 inc VAT & delivery.
Fiat Coupe 20v Cambelt Replacement Page 2 3/9/2007
58 Step Cambelt Change Guide.
This cambelt change was carried out on a 20v.
The theory for a 20v or turbo with aircon is similar but the Aux belt arrangement is different and covered in the Appendix.
Tools & Parts.
1. 2 Trolley Jacks and another jack.
2. Ribe bits, M6 and M8 (or 6mm flat screwdriver bit + Torx T5)
3. Cam locking tools (Didn't use these)
4. Cam belt
5. Aux belt
6. Water Pump
7. Fixed Tensioner
10. Thread Locking Solution
11. Red gasket sealer
12. 24 mm spanner
There are 58 steps. The time for the job is around 6 hours if working methodically and not going to the shops for new tools, parts etc. If changing the water pump drain the coolant before starting.
Jack the car up, chock the back wheels and support the
OSF of the car on an axle stand. Do not raise it too
high as you will need to be able to raise and lower
the engine with the jack.
Remove the wheel.
(Loosen the nuts before jacking).
Remove the plastic wheelarch liner plate. This is just
the piece at the bottom that covers the belts and
Loosen the ribe bolts that secure the crank pulley.
Lock the crank by putting the car in gear and putting
a screwdriver into one of the disc slots.
I used a good quality Torx T5 bit but the correct part
is an M8 Ribe bit.
Loosen the 2 13mm nuts that secure
the aux belt adjuster pulley, then turn
the nut in the centre of the pulley
(17mm) anti-clockwise to
loosen the belt. Remove the belt.
Undo the 17mm bolt that vertically secures the top
engine mount (Reaction strut) at the back.
Place a jack under the front engine mount and
raise until the jack is taking the weight of the
Undo the 3 13mm bolts that secure
the lower LH engine mount to the
Next lubricate, then remove the
19mm bolt that secures the engine
mount to the engine.
Get the engine mount out by
twisting it up and over the top of the
mount from the engine. |The
engine should be lowered as far as
it can go to complete this operation.
Jack the engine up by about an inch, then remove the 17mm bolt that runs
horizontally securing the top mount (reaction strut).
Use a ribe bit or 6mm flat screwdriver blade and a 1/4" spanner to loosen and
undo the top cam cover fastening bolt, then the bolt at the front. I used a bar to
force the screwdriver bit in to stop it from breaking or damaging the ribe bit
Lower the engine and remove the ribe bolt securing the bottom of the cam cover.
Raise the engine until the mount
bracket reaches the chassis rail.
Remove the front and rear ribe bolts.
Withdraw the cam cover.
Position the engine at TDC and remove the M8
Ribe bolts that secure
the bottom pulley.
Remove the bottom
pulley. I used a squirt of
WD 40 and
progressively harder hammer taps
on the edge of the pulley until it
Position and find the marks at 9 O-Clock on
the crank toothed pulley and on the engine
casing and check the crank is perfectly in
Put a white mark on the marks, but also on
the belt in this position. The old belt will be
a template for the new.
Mark the vertical positions of the cam pulleys against the housing as shown
Create more marks on the cambelt to
allow a check for perfect tooth
alignment as below. (see single and
double white marks).
Locking the cams.
A cautious person would now remove the rocker cover and bolt on the cam
I didn't and the cams stayed put. Even if they had moved I could've brought
them back round.
I presume cam locking blocks are only necessary when the variator is changed
or when the pulleys are removed and replaced from the ends of the cams.
Another approach is to loop a few cable ties through the holes in the wheels to
stop them moving. I didn't need to try this either.
Step 19 (optional)
If just changing the belt this step is not required. If
changing the tensioners, water pump etc. it is.
Undo the resonator and move it out of the way.
The cover is held on by 2 screws.
There is a 10mm vertical bolt holding the resonator in.
Remove passenger side front mount (optional)
If just changing the belt this step is not required. If
changing the tensioners, water pump etc. it is.
Place a jack under the gearbox and undo the 17mm
bolt that runs vertically through the mount as shown in
Tea Break Thoughts.
Your engine is now quite free to move around.
Access can be improved by swinging it across the bay but also by using the jacks
either side to tilt the engine.
The subframe underneath and the rear mount will prevent the engine from falling
out of the car.
Be careful of the power steering hoses which run up towards the front of the car.
Try to be kind to the exhaust.
Don't jack so high that the car starts lifting or so low that the jack loses contact
with the engine or gearbox.
Don't get under the car while it is on jacks. The engine is unsecured.
Move the engine into a position that allows comfortable working. I used a block
of wood against the body and the alternator pulley to gently swing the engine
I found a high position works best for
this next bit.
Using a 13mm spanner, loosen the nut
in the centre of the adjustable
tensioner a few turns until the cambelt
Withdraw the cambelt.
Transpose the Tipp-Ex marks from the old cambelt
to the new one and let it dry. The Dayco belt has 2
white lines that run across the belt. Put the mark for
the bottom pulley against the white line that lines up with a recess on the belt.
Remember that the belt runs clockwise, look at the direction marks and make
sure that you are marking it the right way round.
Using a 24mm spanner, undo
the bolt in the centre of the fixed
tensioner. The engine needs to
be as far as possible up &
across the engine bay.
Withdraw the fixed tensioner.
The photo on the right shows
what the bolt is really like.
Remove the small plastic cam cover piece that is over the water pump using a
4mm allen key. One allen bolt goes into a protrusion on the water pump, the
other goes into the front of the engine block.
Using a 6mm allen key undo the 2 bolts
that secure the water pump.
There is a levering point at the front of
the water pump for you to screwdriver
out the waterpump.
If this breaks, use an old chisel and
gentle hammer taps to prise the pump
off the block.
Withdraw the waterpump.
Clean the waterpump aperture.
Congratulations! You have completed the dismantling stage.
Apply red gasket sealant to the block covering the
thin groove that runs around the edge of the water
Insert the water pump.
There is a lobe that goes under
the LH cam wheel so you need to put it in position and then
twist clockwise to make the bolt
holes line up.
Apply thread lock to the 2 6mm
water pump allen bolts.
Insert and tighten the 2 6mm water pump bolts. I did them as tight as I could by
hand with the standard allen key.
Thread the fixed tensioner bolt through the
new fixed tensioner, apply thread lock and
replace the fixed tensioner on the engine.
Re-attach the small cam cover piece that
attaches to the water pump and also to the
front of the block using the 2 allen bolts and a
4mm allen key.
Start to put the cambelt back on, lining up
your transposed white marks on the 2 top
pulleys as in the photo.
The front edge of the cambelt
may be too tight with the
engine in the correct position
to get the new belt into
position on the bottom toothed wheel. Use a 19mm spanner to
turn the wheel anti-clockwise a few degrees to allow you to put
the belt on. Once the belt is on turn clockwise to get the marks to
line up with the engine again. Don't try to turn the top cams, just
take up the slack and get the marks aligned correctly.
Use a bar to push the tensioners apart in
order to get the correct tension for the
belt. It is not easy to describe the right
tension but many make the mistake of
putting the belt on too tight causing
premature wear to the water pump and
Use a 13mm spanner to tighten the nut
in the centre of the adjustable tensioner
when the tension feels correct.
Get your 19mm spanner
out again and apply
clockwise pressure until
the top pulleys are about to move. If the belt running up the left
side of the bottom toothed cog is flapping loose you need to go
tighter. If it can be stretched around 1cm either way using hand
pressure it's about right. If it can't be stretched it is too tight.
Re-tension the belt as shown before if it is too loose or tight.
Turn the bottom toothed cog through 2 complete turns and check that the marks
on the wheels line up.
(NOTE: The white marks on the belt will not line up again with the marks on the
wheels once you have turned the belt. I needed to change my trousers when I
noticed this but the black marks on the wheels and the cam cover etc.. did line
Recheck the tension by repeating
Step 40 only.
Replace the cam cover by inserting
the 4 ribe bolts. (1 top, 1 bottom, 1,
middle front, 1 middle rear). Don't
tighten them too much. It just makes
life harder at the next belt change.
Replace the crank pulley by lining up the additional hole with
the stud on the cam wheel, then hand-tightening the M8 Ribe
bolts, finishing them off with a lever. I used a Torx T5 bit
instead of a Ribe bit.
I used a 3/8 socket lever and did each one up tight enough to
take the engine through a compression stroke. No thread
lock was used.
Thread the Aux belt though the gap between the
fixed and adjustable tensioner, thread it over the
wheel attached to the power steering pump.
Finally thread it over the crank pulley.
Aux belt by putting a 17mm spanner over the
nut in the middle of the adjustable tensioner,
then turning it anticlockwise. The Aux belt
needs to be a little tighter than
the cam belt, but not so tight that
it cannot be twisted through
about 45 degrees using your
fingers. Tighten the 2 13mm
adjustable tensioner bolts with
the Aux belt tension set correctly.
Replace the RH lower engine mounting bolt (17mm).
Replace the resonator using the 10mm bolt,
then replace the resonator cover using the 2 screws. You
may need to raise the gearbox and move the engine to
Replace the LH Lower engine mount into the clamp but
don't bolt anything down yet.
Replace the LH top engine mount (reaction strut) bolts (16mm)
There is one
vertical and one
horizontal bolt. You
may need to raise
the engine to insert
the horizontal bolt.
Position the engine carefully and slide the 19mm
bolt through the centre of the mount to secure
the engine to the body.
Tighten the bolt. The nut goes towards the back
of the car.
Bolt the LH Lower engine
mount to the body using
the three 13mm bolts.
Thread lock should be
applied to these bolts.
Remove the jacks that support the engine and gearbox.
Replace the wheelarch liner piece that covered the belts using the screws.
Replace the road wheel.
Refill the coolant using a 50:50 mixture of antifreeze to water.
Start the engine. Leave it running on idle. Listen for any worrying noises.
Whine indicates an overtensioned belt. Knocking from the enclosure indicates a
loose belt. Retension the belt if necessary.
Access should only require the removal of the LH lower engine mount, the LH
upper engine mount bolts, and the cam cover.
The author accepts no liability for consequential damage as a
result of following these instructions of of failure to follow the
instructions. The DIYer enters this job at their own risk. If you
are not confident about doing the work please do not attempt it.
This guide should not be sold under any circumstances.
Appendix 1. Cars with Air Conditioning.
These cars follow the same principle but the Aux belt tension is controlled by a
The photo below shows a pair of mole
grips being used to hold a cut down 6mm
allen key which is inserted into the centre
of the Aux belt tensioner. This must be
loosened to allow the tensioner to move.
The gold hex key to the right controls the