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:: HOW TO...

DISCLAIMER: fiatcoupe.net can offer no technical support apart from these "How To..." pages. Neither can we accept any liability. Accept all these guides as illustration and remember you should always know what you're doing when you're working on a car.

Brakes and wheels
» Engine bay work
Interior
Some easy work
Suspension
Tuning: easy
Tuning: moderate
Tuning: tough

:: Engine bay work

How to replace cambelt on 20v Coupe
Idle control valve removal (for cleaning)
How to change a rocker cover - 16vt
Replace spark plugs on 20vt
Replace oil cooler and cooler pipes on 20vt
Replacing the cambelt on 16vt
Replacing fuel filter
» Replacing the manifold of a 20vt
Replace manifold on 20vt
Optimize induction system
Airbox modification: holes
Airbox modifications: drainpipe

:: Replacing the manifold of a 20vt

Start by taking your under tray off. I did not have one on the car. So I am not sure how to get this off but by the looks of it there are only four screws holding it up.

First thing to do is to remove the fan unit there are 4 screws holding this into place 1,2,6 and there is one right at the bottom down from 6 as well. They are an 8mm bolt head on them. I found it easier to remove the pipe at fig 7 to gain access to screw next to it. Also unplug the wiring at 3, 4, and 5 the plug unit at 3 just pulls of the fan unit. Then remove the fans.

Next I jacked the car up and stood it on axle stands, Take the top of the coolant reservoir then put a bucket under the radiator at the front and take the pipe of from fig 1 or 4 I disconnected it from fig 1 but I was taking my turbo of as well. Let the coolant drain off. Then unbolt the pipe bracket from the air con compressor fig 2. And undo the hose at fig 3. You should then be able to pull this pipe out the way.

Next remove the lamda probe fig1 and put this somewhere safe as it could get damaged easily. I used an adjustable spanner but I think you can get a socket for this. Then remove the nuts and 1 bolt holding the heat shield plate fig 2,3 and there is 1 bolt right down at the bottom fig 4.

Now it’s time to drop down or remove the radiator. There is an air con condenser unit at the front of the rad. This will need supporting. Undo the two screws fig 1,2 these are the same as the fans 8mm. then tie some string through the holes on the air con condenser unit and tie it to the front somewhere. And remove the rest of the pipes from the rad. You will probable have to snap these off as they will be the fiat clips. You will need new jubilee clips to refit them. Remove the 2 radiator securing screws 1,4 and the air con pipe securing screws 2,3

You will now need to go under the car. There is another two screws on the bottom of the rad holding the air con condenser to it 1,4 remove these and the air con part should be loose. Now remove the bar supporting the radiator 3,2 there is a bar there but I forgot to take a pic before. Doh! Also disconnect the air con pipe from the supporting bar. Lower the rad down or take it out completely.

Remove the 3 bolts holding the cover plate to the air con pump 1,2,3 . Next you need to release the tensioner down the side of the engine.

You need to make a tool to get into this. I used an 8MM alan key. Cut the end down the bit with the bend with an angle grinder to 2Cms and extend the shaft with a bit of tube to about 50Cms

Insert this into the tensoner in the other pic and undo. Do not undo it to much just slacken it off.

Next slacken of the micrometer screw in the air con pump fig 1. This should now release the belt and you can pull the belt to one side. There are 4 bolts holding the air con compressor on fig 2,3,4,5 undo and remove these and the air con compressor should come away from the securing bracket.

Next I used a tie wrap to secure the air con compressor to the radiator mounting fig 1. You now have enough room to get to the last bolts on the manifold.

The last bolts are positioned at about fig 1,2,3 you can get a socket with an extension bar through fig 2 to get to the bottom bolt. Then undo all the rest. They are a 12MM socket. Mine where quite easy to get off.

Now undo the bolts to the turbo fig 1,2,3,4 and you manifold should lift out. The front two are not that bad to get to but the back are a real nightmare. I used the ring end of a spanner upside down.

Manifold is out time to put the new one back in. It takes a bit of jiggling to get it back in.

Sorry I dont have many more photos after this as I got carried away working and forgot to take some more. As they say in the Haynes manual refitting is the reverse of removal. Just a few little bits. After refitting the belt to the aircon compressor tighten the micrometer screw until there is about 1cm of play on the belt and then retighten the tensioner with the made-up tool. Make sure there is no grit or bits stuck in the belt as well. When refilling with coolant there is 3 bleed valves this has been mentioned before. I have some pics.

The far one is located just to the side of the batter tray. One at the side of the rad. And the other is in the middle of the engine just above the heat shield plate Open all these up after refilling until you get a trickle of coolant coming through.

Next take out the plugs or just disconnect the coil packs and prime the turbo before restarting. Hold the ignition on with no plugs in until the light on the oil pressure goes out and the pressure goes up to full.

Here are some torque figs I got out the manual

Coolant 7.5ltr 50/50MIX
Air con bolts 50NM
Spark Plugs 27NM
Turbo Flange 59NM
Manifold to cylinder head nut 25NM

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